Lyon, the City that Prays, the City that Works

A few months ago, I went back to Lyon, the city I used to call home for more than ten years (and the place where I met my wife!). After some evening drinks with friends, I found myself awake in my crappy hotel at 5 in the morning, so I decided to wander downtown before I had to catch my train.

Returning to this place was a bit surreal as it felt so natural and yet so far away. All the places were the same; all the streets passed one after the other in an extremely familiar way, but I felt a bit disconnected at the same time.

Lyon city hall hit by the first light of the day.

After a small pain au chocolat, I arrived at Place Bellecour at the heart of Lyon’s peninsula. From this place, you can see Fourvière, one of the city’s two hills. This hill is referred to as the “hill that prays”, and it’s pretty obvious to understand why at first glance. Indeed, it’s tough to miss the massive basilic that stands on the top.

Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière, view from Bellecour.

A few metres away from Bellecour, you can see Croix-Rousse, the “hill that works”. It got its name from the fact that Lyon was once one of the world’s major silk producers, which the Canuts weaved on the flank of Croix-Rousse in high-ceiling workshops big enough to host their Jacquard looms.

Croix Rousse, Lyon.

Lyon has an extraordinary history. Once a major Roman city (Lugdunum, the capital of Gaul), then a major silk producer, now the “gastronomic capital of the world” (according to us) and host of more than 20 Michelin-star restaurants, the city is also the birthplace of Cinema and played a significant role in organizing the French resistance during World War II.

Hôtel-Dieu, once a hospital, now rehabilitated as a high-end mall and hotel. Inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

After a last glance at Hôtel-Dieu on the Rhône’s riverbank, it’s already time to head to the train station and resume my travel. I hope to return to Lyon soon to rediscover it again and again.